Deira is old Dubai – the historic trading heart across the creek, home to the gold and spice souks and the city's most authentic, unpretentious food. This is where you come for proper Iranian, Pakistani, Afghan and Emirati cooking at a fraction of new-Dubai prices. Metro (Al Rigga / Union) and the abra across the creek both serve it.
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Deira is best explored on foot around the souks, then the creek abra for AED 1. Go hungry and bring cash – many of the old-guard spots are cash-first.